What is OEKO-TEX Standard 100?
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is a testing and certification system run by the OEKO-TEX Association, founded in 1992 by textile research institutes in Austria and Germany. It certifies that every component of a textile article meets limits for more than 1,000 harmful substances.
The test covers substances regulated by law and substances not yet regulated but identified as harmful. Categories include formaldehyde, heavy metals such as lead and cadmium, pesticide residues, azo dyes that release carcinogenic amines, phthalates, chlorinated phenols, and allergenic disperse dyes. Some limits are stricter than EU REACH legislation.
Testing is carried out by independent OEKO-TEX member institutes, and the certificate lists the tested article, the product class and the test report number. Certification covers each component: fabric, thread, zips, buttons, prints and labels each pass the limits, so a single non-compliant trim fails the entire article.
What are the OEKO-TEX product classes?
Four product classes apply: Class I for babies up to 36 months, Class II for articles with direct skin contact, Class III for articles with no or little skin contact, and Class IV for furnishing materials. Limits tighten from Class IV to Class I.
| Class | Article type | Menswear example | Formaldehyde limit | pH range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| I | Baby articles to 36 months | Not applicable | Not detectable (16 mg/kg detection limit) | 4.0 to 7.5 |
| II | Direct skin contact | T-shirt, boxers, polo, shirt | 75 mg/kg | 4.0 to 7.5 |
| III | No or little skin contact | Jacket outer fabric, coat | 300 mg/kg | 4.0 to 9.0 |
| IV | Furnishing material | Not applicable | 300 mg/kg | 4.0 to 9.0 |
Menswear t-shirts, underwear and shirts fall in Class II, because the fabric touches the skin for hours. Jacket shells and the outer layer of coats fall in Class III. The classification of an article follows its use, and a single garment with a lining in contact with skin takes Class II for the lining and Class III for the shell, each on its own certificate line.
A jersey t-shirt manufacturing programme certified in Class II carries the strictest limits that apply to adult menswear. The certificate number links the garment to a specific tested material.
How is an OEKO-TEX certificate verified?
A buyer verifies a certificate with the OEKO-TEX Label Check tool, by entering the certificate number and the check number printed on the label. The tool returns the certificate holder, product class, expiry date and certified articles.
Verification takes three steps. The buyer asks the supplier for the certificate number and a copy of the certificate, enters both on the OEKO-TEX website, and compares the holder name, article description and expiry date against the goods and the supplier. A certificate is valid for 12 months from issue, and the holder renews it by retesting.
Four checks catch the common failures:
- Holder matches the fabric mill or manufacturer, not an unrelated company.
- Article description covers the fabric type and colour being bought.
- Class matches the product: Class II for skin-contact garments.
- Expiry falls after the date of shipment.
A label on a garment and a certificate in a folder are separate things. The label names a certificate number, and only the register confirms that the number is live. A buyer working with a sourcing partner in Bangladesh requests the register check as part of supplier approval.
What does OEKO-TEX not certify?
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 does not certify organic fibre, ethical labour conditions, environmental impact of manufacturing, fibre origin or product durability. It certifies the chemical content of the finished article at the date of testing.
Five misreadings recur:
- Organic is a separate claim, certified by standards such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), which audits fibre origin and processing.
- Ethical production is assessed by social audits such as BSCI and SMETA, which examine working conditions.
- Sustainable manufacturing falls under OEKO-TEX STeP, MADE IN GREEN and ZDHC programmes, which are different certifications from Standard 100.
- Fibre origin such as Egyptian or Supima cotton requires separate verification.
- Whole-supply-chain safety is not covered, because the test applies to the certified article and its listed components.
The phrase "OEKO-TEX certified" on a product page means one of three labels. Standard 100 is the product-chemistry label, MADE IN GREEN adds traceable production in audited facilities, and STeP certifies the production site. A buyer reads the label name and asks which one is held.
How does OEKO-TEX relate to EU chemical rules?
EU REACH regulation sets legal limits for restricted substances in textiles sold in the EU, and Standard 100 limits are stricter in some categories. Certification does not replace legal compliance; it documents testing against a stricter list.
REACH Annex XVII restricts substances including azo dyes that release specified aromatic amines above 30 mg/kg, nickel release from metal fittings, and certain phthalates and flame retardants. An importer is legally responsible for compliance whether or not the goods carry a label. Standard 100 certification gives the importer test evidence from an independent institute, which supports the importer's due diligence file.
Retailers and brand compliance programmes frequently set a restricted substances list (RSL) of their own, and Standard 100 certification maps onto those lists. A buyer supplying the EU holds the certificate and the underlying test report, since customs and market surveillance authorities request the test report and not the label.
Where does OEKO-TEX certification fit when sourcing from Bangladesh?
Bangladeshi knit fabric mills and garment factories hold OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certificates at varying levels: some hold the certificate for their fabric, some for the finished garment, and some hold neither. Certification is specific to an article and a holder, so a buyer confirms which fabric and which colours a certificate covers before placing an order for shorts currently in stock or a custom programme.
Certification held for a given style is stated in the quotation with the certificate number, so a buyer verifies it in the register before payment. Fabric testing for a custom order is arranged at an independent laboratory where the supplier holds no certificate, and test cost and turnaround are confirmed per order. Buyers who need finished goods without a production run can review shorts currently in stock and ask for the test documentation of any lot.