Buyer guide

Apparel Fabric Guides: Weight, Weave, Yarn and Finish

In Bangladeshi men's wear production, fabric specification is the step that fixes weight, weave, yarn and finish before a quotation is priced. Fabric is where most specification errors start and where most price differences hide. Two quotations at the same headline weight are not always quoting the same cloth.

What decides how a fabric performs?

Four properties decide it, in order of impact: weight, yarn type and count, weave or knit structure, and finish. Weight is easiest to specify and least informative alone, because a heavier fabric in coarse yarn underperforms a lighter one in finer yarn.

Specify all four. A buyer who states "180 GSM, 30s combed compact single jersey, bio-polished" has described a fabric; a buyer who states "180 GSM" has described a weight.

In this section

  • T-shirt GSM — what the figure measures, which weight suits which market, and how to verify a supplier's claim on arrival.
  • Twill and chino — one is a weave, the other is a garment, and the confusion causes real specification errors.
  • Denim weight in ounces — how 8oz through 16oz behave in wear, and where stretch content changes the calculation.
  • Garment wash types — how enzyme, stone, rinse and bleach finishes change colour, hand and shrinkage, and what batch variation to expect.

Where does fabric specification fit when sourcing from Bangladesh?

Getting the fabric specification right at enquiry removes the most common source of dispute between a buyer and a new supplier, because it converts an argument about feel into a measurement either party can take. Every quotation we issue states composition, weight and finish separately for that reason. See what we run in manufacturing.

In this section

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