Heavyweight knitwear behaves differently from jersey at every stage — it shrinks more, it needs different machinery at the seams, and it shows fabric quality faster. Specification detail pays for itself here more than in any other knit category.
What fleece and terry weights are available?
The 280 to 320 band covers mainstream retail; 340 and above produces the structured, substantial handfeel premium and streetwear programmes require.
French terry has looped yarns on the inside face and is lighter and more breathable. Brushed fleece has those loops raised into a soft nap, which adds warmth and bulk but also increases pilling risk if the yarn is poor. The choice between them changes the garment's season more than its price.
Polyester content improves shape retention and reduces shrinkage; higher cotton content improves handfeel and print quality. Most commercial programmes sit between 80/20 and 60/40 cotton-polyester for exactly this trade-off.
Which hoodie blocks and closures are produced?
Crew sweatshirts, pullover hoods, half-zip and full-zip, in regular, oversized and cropped blocks. Zip programmes carry an additional procured trim with its own lead time. Every block is built on brushed fleece or French terry from 260 to 400 grams.
Fit character has moved substantially in recent seasons, and a buyer specifying "standard fit" without a measurement chart will receive a block that can differ from their market's current expectation. Send a reference garment or specify drop shoulder position and body width explicitly.
How are drawcords, eyelets and rib trims specified?
Drawcord by material, width and tipping; eyelets by finish and whether metal or stitched; rib by composition, width and elastane content. Each is a procured trim, and each gates assembly independently of the body fabric.
- Drawcord — flat or round, cotton or polyester, with or without metal tips.
- Eyelet — metal eyelets require a salt-spray test for humid markets; stitched eyelets avoid the issue entirely.
- Rib — must be dyed to match the body fabric, and the match is approximate rather than exact. Agree the tolerance at sampling.
Rib matching is the most common colour complaint in this category, because rib and body fabric take dye differently. Approve a physical rib-to-body match rather than a Pantone reference alone.
What controls shrinkage in heavyweight knitwear?
Compacting before cutting, and a stated residual shrinkage tolerance on the specification — commonly 5 percent length and 3 percent width after a standard wash test. Heavyweight fleece shrinks more than jersey and needs the tolerance stated explicitly.
This is where a hoodie order goes wrong after delivery. A garment that fits at the fit-sample stage and shrinks two sizes in the first wash is a fabric-preparation failure, and it is prevented by specifying and testing rather than by trusting. Ask for the fabric test report with the shipment.
Hoodie and sweatshirt specification at a glance
| Attribute | Value on this programme |
|---|---|
| Fabrics | Brushed fleece, French terry |
| Weight range | 260–400 GSM; 280–320 mainstream retail, 340+ premium and streetwear |
| Common blends | 80/20 to 60/40 cotton-polyester |
| Blocks | Crew sweatshirt, pullover hood, half-zip, full-zip |
| Fits | Regular, oversized, cropped |
| Drawcords | Flat or round, cotton or polyester, with or without metal tips |
| Eyelets | Metal (salt-spray tested for humid markets) or stitched |
| Rib | Specified by composition, width and elastane content; physical rib-to-body colour match |
| Shrinkage tolerance | Commonly 5% length and 3% width after a standard wash test |
How do I order hoodie and sweatshirt manufacturing?
Send a reference garment or specify weight, composition, construction, block and trims. We quote against it and state trim lead times separately, because zips and ribs gate assembly.
For hoodies from stock, check what is currently held. When building a full range, read how outerwear differs before deciding which category a padded hooded garment belongs in — the answer also affects its tariff classification.